Seattle's Best Plumbers

When you are looking for a plumber in Seattle and the Seattle Metro, Rush Plumbing has been serving your friends and neighbors for 30 years!

Rush Plumbing Seattle

If You Can't Flush, Tell Rush
30 Years Experience
We Can Fix it, Replace it, Install it.

The city of Seattle has unique needs for plumbing services. Which is why we are the best plumbers in the Seattle Area. You want your plumbing done right, on time and at a reasonable cost. That's what we specialize in and why so many people say good things about us.

Plumbing Issues Common
to the Seattle Area

• Seattle residents are mobile
  In the Seattle area 21% of people have moved in a year. Which means you can't be sure of the care taken of your homes plumbing over the years.
• The age of buildings in Seattle
  In Seattle, the median construction year is 1974. About 23.4% of homes were built before the 1940s, with another 7.4% going up by 1949. Most development happened in the second half of the 20th century. Then, 12% of homes were added from 2000 to 2009, 17.6% between 2010 and 2019, and 1.2% are part of the newest wave of development.
• Lead Piping
  Lead Pipe Background in Washington:
  • In 1986, Congress amended the Safe Drinking Water Act (SDWA) to prohibit the use of pipes, solder or flux that are not “lead free” in public water systems or plumbing in facilities providing water for human consumption (Reference doh.wa.go)
  • In 1980, the city of Seattle banned lead-based plumbing materials and King County banned in 1985. It wasn’t until 1987 that the rest of Washington state instituted the same ban.
  • If your home was built after 1988 with a new water connection, you can be confident that you do not have a lead service line. If your house or property first got water service before 1988, there is a chance you may have a lead service line, even if your home was remodeled or replaced later, but more investigation is necessary. (Reference nrdc.org)
  • What type of problems can lead in my plumbing cause?
    Lead in plumbing poses serious health risks, primarily through contamination of drinking water:
    • Health Effects Neurological damage:
      Lead is a neurotoxin that permanently damages the brain and nervous system, particularly devastating for children whose brains are still developing
      Developmental delays in children:
      Even low-level exposure causes reduced IQ, learning disabilities, behavioral problems, and impaired growth
      Cardiovascular problems:
      Lead exposure increases risk of high blood pressure, heart disease, and kidney damage in adults
      Reproductive issues:
      Can cause fertility problems, miscarriage, and premature birth
      Cumulative poisoning:
      Lead accumulates in bones and organs over time; there is no safe level of exposure
    • Vulnerable Populations Children under 6:
      Most at risk due to developing brains and higher absorption rates
      Pregnant women:
      Lead crosses the placenta, harming fetal development
      Infants on formula:
      Formula mixed with lead-contaminated water concentrates the exposure
    • Sources in Plumbing Lead pipes:
      Homes built before 1986 may have lead service lines or interior pipes
      Lead solder:
      Used to join copper pipes before 1986
      Brass fixtures:
      Older faucets and valves may contain significant lead content
      Galvanized pipes:
      Often connected to lead pipes or have lead in their zinc coating
    • Why It's Dangerous Invisible and tasteless:
      You cannot see, smell, or taste lead in water
      Leaches over time:
      Lead dissolves into water, especially with acidic water, hot water, or water sitting in pipes overnight
      Irreversible damage:
      Health effects, particularly in children, cannot be fully reversed
    • Testing and Mitigation
      If your home was built before 1986, you should:
    • Have your water tested by a certified laboratory
      Run cold water for 1-2 minutes before using for drinking or cooking
      Only use cold water for consumption (hot water leaches more lead)
      Consider installing NSF-certified lead-filtering devices
      Replace lead plumbing components when possible
    • Lead plumbing is one of the most serious plumbing-related health hazards and should be addressed promptly if present.
• Cast Iron and Galvanized Piping in Your Seattle Home
  • If you own an older home built in the early 20th century, you may have cast iron or galvanized piping. While no longer common in new construction, these materials are known for their strength and longevity. Cast iron, in particular, can handle high-pressure water flow and extreme temperatures, including boiling water, making it a durable option. It’s still occasionally used in parts of water distribution systems today.
  • However, these older pipes are more prone to rust and corrosion than modern alternatives. Cast iron is also much heavier than today’s piping materials, which makes removal and replacement more labor-intensive and expensive. If your home still has these pipes, it’s worth weighing the cost of repairs versus a full system upgrade. However, these older pipes are more prone to rust and corrosion than modern alternatives. (Reference thisoldhouse.com)
  • Galvanized pipes were installed in many homes in the Seattle area that were built before the 1960s. Over many years, zinc erodes from galvanized pipes. Corrosion can build up on the inside walls of the pipes and creates the potential for lead to accumulating over time. Corrosion in galvanized pipes can lead to lower water pressure and water quality issues.
  • One concern would be water leaks and flooding. These types of lines fail inside walls and can cause extensive flood damage. The life expectancy of these water lines is around 50 years so the majority of them are now within this range as they are not used anymore. Some insurance companies will not provide coverage to a home with galvanized water lines
  • Customers that had lead service lines replaced, but still have galvanized pipes, are still susceptible to lead in water from lead released from the galvanized pipes.
  • As galvanized pipes corrode and form rust, lead that is accumulated over decades is likely to be found deep in the interior walls of rusty pipes. Lead in galvanized iron home plumbing can periodically contribute to lead in drinking water. (Reference pnwig.com)
  • Corrosion and Rust
    Interior deterioration: The zinc coating inside galvanized pipes gradually corrodes, exposing the underlying steel to rust. This typically accelerates after 20-40 years Rust-colored water: As pipes corrode, they release rust particles that discolor water, staining fixtures, laundry, and dishes Metallic taste and odor: Corroded pipes impart an unpleasant taste and smell to drinking water
  • Reduced Water Flow
    Scale buildup: Corrosion creates mineral deposits and rust accumulation inside pipes, progressively narrowing the interior diameter Restricted flow: What started as 3/4" pipe may effectively become 1/4" or less, drastically reducing water pressure throughout the home Uneven pressure: Some fixtures may have decent flow while others barely trickle, depending on which pipes are most affected
  • Leaks and Failures
    Pinhole leaks: Corrosion eats through pipe walls from the inside out, creating small leaks that can cause hidden water damage Joint failures: Threaded connections are particularly vulnerable to corrosion and leaking Catastrophic bursts: Severely weakened pipes can rupture suddenly, causing flooding
  • Health and Safety Concerns
    Lead contamination: Galvanized pipes installed before the 1960s often contain lead in their zinc coating or were connected to lead pipes, potentially leaching lead into drinking water Bacterial growth: Rough, corroded interior surfaces provide ideal conditions for bacteria colonization
  • Hidden Damage
    In-wall deterioration: Problems often develop unnoticed inside walls until major leaks occur, leading to expensive repairs involving drywall, insulation, and structural damage. Most plumbing professionals recommend replacing galvanized pipes that are 50+ years old, or sooner if problems appear.
• Copper pipes, M-Type in Seattle
  • Type M copper pipe is the thinnest pipe that can be used for residential plumbing. While some people argue these pipes should last 50 years, in practice, it may not last more than 20. Copper pipe will corrode if exposed to water with high acid levels and the thin walls of M-type pipe don’t offer much protection against this wear-and-tear.
  • Some blame the early failure of copper pipes on acidic water, but choosing the thinner M-type pipe is a big factor in the shortened lifespan of these pipes. After all, you can’t always choose the acidity of your water as it comes in from the city. In addition, well water may not be balanced for pH level and can wear down pipes much faster than you expect.
  • While M-type meets building code expectations in most areas, it’s not the best. In fact, it doesn’t meet building code expectations in some states like Massachusetts. A short period of water pressure problems in your home could cause serious damage to your M-type piping. High acidity could also wear it down after 20 years. The last thing you want to do is make a large investment in piping and have to replace it sooner than you expect. (Reference todayshomeowner.com)
  • Structural Vulnerabilities
    Thinner walls: Type M has the thinnest walls of the copper pipe types (M, L, K), making it more susceptible to damage
    Pinhole leaks: The thinner material is more vulnerable to corrosion-related pinhole leaks, especially in aggressive water conditions
    Physical damage: More easily punctured by nails, screws, or during renovations compared to Type L or K
    Freeze damage: Less able to withstand expansion from freezing water without bursting
    
  • Water Quality Issues
    Acidic water problems: In areas with low pH water (acidic), Type M corrodes faster, leading to premature failure and potential copper leaching
    Electrolysis sensitivity: More vulnerable to galvanic corrosion when connected to dissimilar metals
    High velocity erosion: In systems with high water velocity or turbulence, the thinner walls wear through faster
  • Installation Concerns
    Over-tightening risk: The thinner walls make fittings easier to crack or damage during installation if over-torqued
    Bending limitations: Less forgiving when bending, more likely to kink or collapse
    Less corrosion allowance: Has minimal material to lose before failure occurs
  • Code and Longevity Issues
    Not universally approved: Some jurisdictions don't allow Type M for certain applications, particularly underground or in concrete
    Shorter lifespan: Generally has a shorter service life than Type L or K, particularly in challenging water conditions
    Higher failure rate: More susceptible to premature failure in demanding applications
  • That said, Type M is approved by code for many residential applications and can perform adequately in homes with neutral pH water and proper installation. The problems mainly arise in challenging conditions or high-demand situations where the extra thickness of Type L would be beneficial.
• Tree Root Intrusion
  Mature trees, clay & older sewer pipes, moist soil encourage roots to grow into weak joints or cracks.
  Frequent clogs, slow drains, sewage backups, gurgling sounds, sometimes visible roots during repair.
• Corrosion & Aging Pipes
  Many older Seattle homes have pipes made of galvanized steel, cast iron, or outdated materials. Seattle’s damp climate and soil shifting (rain, freeze‐thaw) accelerate wear and rust.
  Discolored/rusty water; leaks; loss of water pressure; pipes that are brittle or weak.
• Clogged Drains, Toilets & Sewer Lines
  Common causes: grease, soap, hair, flushables; compounded by root intrusion in underground lines; older pipes are more prone to buildup.
  Slow draining sinks/tubs; multiple fixtures backing up; foul odors; backups into homes.
• Leaky or Outdated Fixtures/Shutoffs
  Older fixtures degrade; seals, washers, and shut‐off valves wear out; deprecated sizes or outdated code make repair/fit more difficult.
  Dripping faucets; running toilets; water stains; leaks around fixtures.
• Water Heater Problems
  Mineral buildup (sediment) inside heaters; aging units less efficient; rust; more wear in older installations. Seattle isn’t super hard water everywhere, but mineral content plus typical heavy use contributes.
  Less hot water; strange sounds; rusty or discolored water; higher energy bills; heater failures.
• Low or Fluctuating Water Pressure
  Caused by corrosion (pipes getting narrow), leaks, sediment buildup, or if parts of the system are aging or partially blocked. Also “bellying” (sags in pipes) can reduce flow.
  Weak shower flow; pressure drops when multiple fixtures used; uneven flow; sometimes sudden drops.
• Frozen or Burst Pipes
  Although Seattle winters are milder than many places, cold spells do happen. Exposed pipes, crawlspaces, attic walls can be vulnerable. Freeze‐thaw cycles stress materials.
  No water flow after a freeze; visible frost; bang or crack noises; sudden leaks.
• Drainage Problems / Foundation Seepage
  Heavy rains, saturated soils, poor grading around houses; clogged gutters/downspouts; lack of or failing drainage systems in basements/crawlspaces. The frequent precipitation in Seattle means water often has to be managed well.
  Pooling water near foundation; damp or musty basements; water stains; mold; water intrusion during heavy rains.
• Side Sewer / Private Sewer Line Defects
  Many older side sewers are clay or concrete with non‑watertight joints; exposed aggregate, holes, root damage, debris/grease buildup are common.
  Sewer backups; foul smells; visible leaks or depressions in yard; water pooling or soggy spots.

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